Fall 2017: Helbers & The Row - Aesthetic Post

Fall 2017: Helbers & The Row

Helbers Fall 2017 (Menswear)
Helbers Fall 2017

Paul Helbers, who has previously designed at Margiela and Vuitton, was inspired by 19-century paintings by the artist Émile Friant for his fall 2017 menswear collection. Friant’s self-portraits, in rich tones of oil paint, showed a man demanding to be taken seriously by attempting to look older than his age, mostly by his style of dress, which appears more borrowed and oversized than bespoke. Rich in material, Helbers’ collection isn’t overwrought, and stays fresh, despite the tactile nature of the materials and the visual texture that alludes to layered brushstrokes. Helbers is notoriously specific with his material choices and obsession over detail, elevating dressing for comfort on every level. The lines and edges may not be sharp, but this collection is an intelligent exercise in romance meeting minimalism.

More at: Helbers

The Row Fall 2017 Ready-To-Wear
The Row Fall 2017

Similar in philosophy to Helbers’ appreciation and use of fine textiles, The Row has always been highest-quality materials and craftsmanship-based, rather than trend-driven or showy. The fall 2017 collection was perhaps further restrained than their previous work, omitting the extraneous and focusing on timelessness in a minimal palette, without being boring. Intelligent cuts and strict belting were balanced by plays on proportion, and coats that served the woman wearing them before they impressed the bystander. There is being tasteful for the sake of being tasteful, and then there is good taste; this soft power-style of dressing may be what sets The Row apart from a bevy of designers pushing whatever might be “next.”

More at: The Row

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