New York Fashion Week SS12 Review

NYFW SS12 Womenswear

While much of New York Fashion Week was based in all-American styles, there were a few imaginative and interesting S/S 2012 presentations. Here is a rundown of my favorite womenswear collections and looks that were featured. Of the noted trends, my favorite was the number of chic pant ensembles, and though people can’t stop going crazy with the ‘androgyny’ suggestion, I think these looks worked as a great counter-balance to the sea of kitschy fifties numbers.

Above: Derek Lam used mid-century Southern California as a reference for this collection, but, very wisely, withheld from allowing it to look mid-century-inspired. Simple pieces had suggestions of intricacy, and the print selection was perfectly edited. Photos: Yannis Vlamos


A non-traditional approach to color blocking, unexpected cuts and lengths, and a playful mix of strong and subtle colors, had Narciso Rodriguez playing on the edge of his typical minimalist approach. Photos: Monica Feudi


Though these three looks lean toward dark, 3.1 Philip Lim also presented some very evocative, sun-drenched spring colors. Incorporating panels (that moved with the model’s motion) into tops and dresses, made his kite reference clear, leaving the collection feeling very seasonally reflective. Photos: Yannis Vlamos


Yigal Azrouel finely works his pieces to the point of perfection, but they still read as effortless. The way these looks were styled made it possible to instantly read the strength of each piece. Photos: Alessandro Garofalo


Tibi showed a number of ultra-simple, clean looks.  A great interpretation of sportswear, this collection looks easy but expensive. Photos: Alessandro Viero


The Row showed ethereal, pajama-esque pieces that moved like ghosts. Luxe, but well restrained. Photos: The Row


King of structure, Ralph Rucci always shows an interesting  fusion of sophistication and architectural presence. This collection subtly sexed things up a bit. Panels and sheers kept your eye trying to decide if it should focus on the garment, the skin, or the girl. Photos: Alessandro Garofalo

Rag and Bone illustrated that neon doesn’t have to be annoying. With smartly-tailored nineties references, and sportswear materials, the pieces that were good were really good. Photos: Yannis Vlamos


Ports 1961 showed sharp cuts with silhouettes that moved very softly. This collection hints at trends, but doesn’t appear even relatively disposable. Photos: Marcus Tondo


Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein showed a subtle palette with rich finishes. There were nods to both extreme luxury and minimalism, with a good dose of femininity. Photos:  Filippo Fior

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