Viktor & Rolf Monsieur FW14 - Aesthetic Post

Viktor & Rolf Monsieur FW14

In the city, sometimes the least expected but practical clothing combinations can make the most sense sartorially. Take for instance the chic, carefreeness of a suited man off-the-clock, perhaps just leaving the gym, still donning his tailored trousers cuffed over sneakers, and with a perfectly fitting sweatshirt on top; it can work very well. This amalgamation can also go terribly wrong: a full suit with a baseball cap, women on the train in stockings and their “comfortable” sport shoes, etc., business-meets-sport it isn’t an easy game to play. The good news is, Viktor Horsting and Ralf Snoeren know exactly what they are doing.

The two have made it clear that they love grey flannel; it has been a staple in past collections, and after decking their new Saint-Honoré store in the material from head-to-toe, they use it as a canvas for a major portion of their Fall 2014 menswear collection. Forgoing soft-spoken, ultra-traditional suiting, the material has been reinterpreted with an infusion of sport. The athletic theme could easily read as excessively playful, something Viktor & Rolf have a reputation for siding with, but this is restrained in all the right places: athletic tape seals seams, sweatshirt material find its way into suiting, and sneakers that err on the side of sport, not fashion, look smart.

Their continued collaboration with fellow Dutch artist, and founder of the hip street label Rockwell, Piet Parra, has resulted in a successful execution of a fashion formula that isn’t entirely new, but rethought. The collection certainly is not old-fashioned office or evening wear, but we know that isn’t the target. These are pieces for the creative gentleman that is allowed a little experimentation in the wardrobe department; nothing dusty here.

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