The Aesthetic Post


Fall 2017: Helbers & The Row

Helbers Fall 2017 (Menswear)
Helbers Fall 2017

Paul Helbers, who has previously designed at Margiela and Vuitton, was inspired by 19-century paintings by the artist Émile Friant for his fall 2017 menswear collection. Friant’s self-portraits, in rich tones of oil paint, showed a man demanding to be taken seriously by attempting to look older than his age, mostly by his style of dress, which appears more borrowed and oversized than bespoke. Rich in material, Helbers’ collection isn’t overwrought, and stays fresh, despite the tactile nature of the materials and the visual texture that alludes to layered brushstrokes. Helbers is notoriously specific with his material choices and obsession over detail, elevating dressing for comfort on every level. The lines and edges may not be sharp, but this collection is an intelligent exercise in romance meeting minimalism.

More at: Helbers


The Row Fall 2017 Ready-To-Wear
The Row Fall 2017

Similar in philosophy to Helbers’ appreciation and use of fine textiles, The Row has always been highest-quality materials and craftsmanship-based, rather than trend-driven or showy. The fall 2017 collection was perhaps further restrained than their previous work, omitting the extraneous and focusing on timelessness in a minimal palette, without being boring. Intelligent cuts and strict belting were balanced by plays on proportion, and coats that served the woman wearing them before they impressed the bystander. There is being tasteful for the sake of being tasteful, and then there is good taste; this soft power-style of dressing may be what sets The Row apart from a bevy of designers pushing whatever might be “next.”

More at: The Row

Monday Cups by Studio LileSadi & Siebring Zoetmulder

Monday Cups by Studio LileSadi

Monday Cups by Studio LileSadi

In collaboration with Siebring & Zoetmulder, Rotterdam-based Studio LileSadi have designed a collection of stackable ceramic cups for the Dutch interior brand Puik Art. 

Exploring architectural proportions and the golden ratio, as well as geometric elements used by the Memphis group, the Monday cup is thoughtfully executed, while still appearing restrained in design. A soft, tactile effect is created by blending the grey blue or cobalt pigments directly with liquid porcelain before being poured into the mold and finished, a contrast of matte exterior finish, and high gloss interior makes for a refined detail.

Founded in 2012 by the duo of Dinah Smutny and her sister Sarah, Studio LileSadi design products inspired by architecture and practicality; working closely with artisans and small businesses in the Netherlands, they subscribe to the highest craftsmanship to create timeless quality.

More at: Studio LileSadi

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

KDVA Architects conceived the FH1 House as a “modern fisherman’s house;” built into the rocky landscape, adjacent to a Norwegian fjord, the liberal use of concrete and brutalist suggestions integrate the structure to the land. At under 1000 sq ft, the home perfectly balances minimalism and elegance, without forgoing a strong Nordic identity.

Full-wall moveable glass panels fill the space with natural light, as well as bridge the outside to in with remarkable views of the surrounding landscape. A central living space is adaptable to layout preferences, and a stark, wraparound veranda serves as an outdoor extension of the home.

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

 

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

FH1 House by KDVA

More at: KDVA
Photos: KDVA

Listening / Viewing: Electric Guest – Dear To Me


Directed by Alan Del Rio Ortiz. From the upcoming album Plural.

UV by TJOKEEFE

UV by TJOKEEFE

UV by TJOKEEFE

UV by TJOKEEFE

UV by TJOKEEFE  

UV by TJOKEEFE is a light sculpture composed of ultraviolet LEDs, a powder-coated aluminum bar, and woven nylon thread. The piece is designed to be suspended by its thread flat on the wall, or in a corner; the thread reacts to the UV light projected from below, becoming its own light source, emitting a soft orange glow.

TJOKEEFE, the studio of Michigan-born designer TJ O’Keefe, was established in 2010. With a mission of exploring design and creating powerful objects through compelling minimalism, TJOKEEFE has produced furniture and objects guided by geometry and graphic presence.

More at: TJOKEEFE

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Findings on Light from PARS’ Atlas of Creative Thinking

Light is essential to maintain life, the strongest and fastest form of energy; this common, yet mysterious phenomenon has captivated creative thinkers for millenia. As the third volume in their Atlas of Creative Thinking, PARS, the arts and sciences organization led by art historian Hester Aardse and poet Astrid Alben, Findings on Light (designed by Joost Grootens) invites more than fifty artists and scientists to discuss the specific, albeit broad topic of light.

A collection of research and artworks, ranging from humorous, to beautiful and complex, even disturbing, Findings on Light brings new reflection and vision to the compelling subject. “We stipulate only two formal requirements,” PARS says. “Each response, whether it be a note jotted down on a beer mat, a formula, a dialogue, an essay, poem, sketch, a piece of sculpture or a piece of string, has to be in the language of the author’s discipline and relate to the subject.” Consequently, the outcomes are as diverse as their authors and creators.

Based on the idea that creativity and curiosity are fundamental to both art and science, PARS introduces new ideas, research, and artistic explanation to topics that are often under-considered but fundamental to our daily lives, the first two titles of the series being Ice and Elasticity. In addition to their books and compositions, the organization curates events that mix art and scientific experiments.

35,00 €, Lars Müller Publishers

MONO by Mae Engelgeer

MONO by Mae Engelgeer

MONO by Mae Engelgeer

MONO by Mae Engelgeer

MONO by Mae Engelgeer

The MONO collection, by Dutch designer Mae Engelgeer, is inspired by vintage kimonos found during travels in Japan. The specific colors, and often graphic shapes seen on kimono linings are artfully translated to Engelgeer’s textiles, applied to blankets, cushions, and tea towels. Refined color stories, from shades of blush, to metal-inspired greys and ultra-brights, in materials like mohair and merino wool, are woven at TextielLab in the Netherlands.

More at: Studio Mae Engelgeer
Photos: Lonneke van der Palen

Listening / Viewing: SOHN – Hard Liquor

Directed by Jovan Todorovic. From the upcoming album Rennen.

Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide ’16

Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide '16

1. Lucetta Magnetic Bike Lights, $20; 2. Japanese Cast Iron Skillet, $84; 3. Mexico from the Inside Out (chef Enrique Olvera), $60; 4. Bäska Snaps, $30; 5. Byredo Incense Candle, $140

Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide '16

6. Surf Odyssey, $55; 7. Kid O Go Car, $14; 8. Verso Super Facial Oil, $195; 9. COS Raw-Cut Wool Hat, $35; 10. ILA Wildflower Honey, $35

Holiday Giveaway: Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli – CLOSED

Moonlight Patchouli by Van Cleef & Arpels

Moonlight Patchouli by Van Cleef & Arpels

Often associated with 1960s counterculture, patchouli’s history in fragrance goes back much further. Notably from Indonesia, essence of patchouli has been appreciated for centuries, in many fragrance-driven iterations. Starting as a means to prevent moths from damaging fabrics, it was common for silk traders of the “Orient” to pack trunks carrying their fabrics with dried patchouli leaves; during their long travels to Europe, silks and cashmeres took on the patchouli aroma, and the specific, exotic fragrance went on to distinguish authenticity. The lingering fragrance of patchouli acted as an indicator of true “Oriental” fabric, and was so desired by the affluent, that English and French garment makers went as far as scenting their imitations with patchouli to be accepted in the marketplace.

As the latest addition to the Collection Extraordinaire library of fragrances, Van Cleef & Arpels is bringing the elegance and mystery back to patchouli, with Moonlight Patchouli. An ode to the iconic ingredient, the fragrance has been refined to patchouli’s truest properties, whilst retaining the exotic nuance. The earthy (but not “dirty”), camphorated fragrance lends itself to both sexes, and translates how it is worn in tones of rich wood and leathers, and non-aggressive herbal and floral suggestions. The “moonlight” aspect frames the patchouli in a heart of Bulgarian rose and powdery iris, leading to a suede accord base note; a sophisticated arrangement of masculine and feminine.

I’ve been wearing Moonlight Patchouli since its release, and perhaps the most obvious way to describe it is elegant; the blend is smooth and atmospheric, and while I can appreciate bold tones, those here are haunting and indirect in their reveal. Moonlight Patchouli doesn’t have any reason to put on a show; but under the skilled hand of perfumer Sonia Constant, the blend is exceptionally balanced, something that can’t often be said for patchouli-centered fragrance.

As a premiere jewelry house, Van Cleef & Arpels avoids gimmicks and pull no shortcuts on the bottle design: classic in form (echoing the other Collection Extraordinaire fragrances), in black lacquer, with subtle, handsome details.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Collection Extraordinaire is a compilation of scents that each highlight a specific fragrance from a modern, poetic approach. The house of Van Cleef & Arpels was, in fact, the first to introduce its own line of fragrances (the debut scent called, fittingly, First). Today, Collection Extraordinaire sets a new standard for nature-based, finest quality fragrance; from incensy, velvety Bois D’Iris, to sunny, white floral California Rêverie, the collection explores the natural world’s scents through thoughtful composition and artistry of perfume.

Moonlight Patchouli (2.5 oz. EDP, $185) is available at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus.

 


 

For your chance to win a full-size (2.5 oz. EDP) bottle of Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Moonlight Patchouli, as well as a 40-hr burn time Van Cleef & Arpels perfumed candle (both beautifully packaged, excellent gifts for yourself or someone that appreciates fine fragrance), simply submit your information and answer the question below. You’ll be entered in the week-long giveaway, ending December 12, 2016, with a winner chosen at random and notified via e-mail to confirm shipping information. Note that when using the form, if you opt to use Facebook (instead of manual entry) to provide your name and e-mail address, this method will NOT post to your wall or retain any other information. This giveaway is limited to United States address-holding entrants, the prize will ship directly upon address verification. Happy holidays, and good luck!

(Disclosure)


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